

B & Bs offer romance – and a lot of good stories
I got a call from The Primetimers, a senior adult group
at Mount Vernon Baptist Church, asking me to speak this month on “Romantic
Places to Stay in Virginia.”
Now I may look like an unlikely expert on romance, but—thanks to 22 of the
past 23 Valentine’s Days—I’m totally an expert on romantic places to stay.
Each of those Valentine’s Days, my sweet wife has taken me off on an
overnight outing to a surprise destination, usually a bed-and-breakfast
somewhere in the general proximity of Richmond. We couldn’t go too far,
since many of those years one or both of us had to report back to work early
on Feb. 15.
I was primed for the Primetimers’ topic and with Valentine’s Day coming up
(and likely to come around again next year), I thought I share some of my
speech with you.
Last Valentine’s, we stayed at Wolf Trap Farm near Gordonsville, a
bed-and-breakfast catering to the horsy crowd—those who come for races or
just folks traveling with horses overnight. Wolf Trap provides a
full-equipped stable, but it accommodates ordinary folk as well. I fit in
nicely until, getting out of bed in the wee hours and thinking I’d quietly
strum my banjo a bit, I succeeded in locking my pajama-clad self (and my
banjo) out at 3 a.m. If you know B&Bs, you understand that not only is there
no one at the front desk at that hour, but there’s not even a front desk. It
was an interesting 20 minutes.
I think it was 2002 when Barb made Valentine’s reservations for us at a
brothel in Charlottesville. Actually, the 200 South Street Inn, a B & B two
blocks off the downtown mall, was a brothel somewhere in its storied past—as
well as a girls’ school and a boarding house. It’s a beautiful place—a bit
more costly than our usual fare, but who wants to go to a cheap brothel?
For Valentine’s Day 2000 we went to jail. The Warm Springs Inn has its own
colorful history, having served as the courthouse, clerk’s office and jail
for Bath County at various times. The Warm Springs Inn actually offered us
one of the most reasonably priced Valentine’s rooms we’ve ever had—as well
as one of the most elaborate and tasty breakfasts. The place was high on
kitsch—including a lobby with a stunningly eclectic collection of things
you’ve never seen before and never will again. Our morning coffeepot was a
huge black and white penguin with a screw-off head—a bit of a shock early in
the a.m.
I have two favorite places on the romance front. One is The Hope and Glory
Inn in Irvington, which has been called “one of the 101 best hotels in the
world.” It certainly is, though I wouldn’t call it a hotel. Definitely an
inn, and an incredibly beautiful, whimsical, romantic, inspired inn it is.
Be sure to ask if you can look into all the unoccupied rooms if you go
there, because each one is so unique and delightful. I remember that Barb
and I danced alone in their lobby to “Tangerine,” and we slept in a room
full of pink flowers.
My second most romantic spot, and one we’ve been back to several times at
other times of the year, is High Meadows in Scottsville. High Meadows is
also a winery, which is only part of the reason it’s such a convivial and
colorful place. The grounds, the gardens, the 14 rooms all come with
important little touches, like love poems at bedside and picnic lunches on
request. On one of our Valentine’s trips, we were snowed in there for two
and a half days—the best Valentine’s I can ever remember.
I don’t have room here to tell you about the ghost at the Sleepy Hollow Farm
Bed and Breakfast near Gordonsville, or the 18th-century mill wheel turning
outside our room at the Roxbury Mill Inn near Thornburg, or Gloucester’s
Warner Hall, with a bed so high I had to get a running start, or Powhatan’s
Inn at Three Bridges, which presented us with luscious homemade fudge.
Remember, I have 22 of these places in my memory bank.
My all-time favorite Valentine’s? The year Barbara, short on cash, had
enough chutzpah to rent us a room at the Jefferson for the afternoon. You’d
have to hear my speech to learn about that one.
Randy Fitzgerald teaches modern American literature at Virginia Union University. He is a former Richmond Times-Dispatch columnists and University of Richmond administrator.